During the great Wi-Fi drought that followed the big storm in El Tunco last Tuesday, Eddie discovered he could play chess on his phone and for the first few days there was a lot of swearing, name calling and the occasional cheer when he won. After we arrived in Las Flores on Friday afternoon, it rained almost non-stop for the first four days and we had patchy Wi-Fi, so when he wasn’t surfing, Eddie got better at chess, and I tried to memorize Spanish infinitive verbs with the Quizlet App. Less successfully, I also tried to listen to my latest book ‘Behind the Beautiful Forevers’ by Katherine Boo, but for the life of me I kept zoning out and all of a sudden it would be an hour later and I hadn’t heard a thing.
When I said to a French girl in El Tunco we were going to stay in Las Flores for two to three weeks, she gasped and said “Have you been there before?” and when I said “No” she said “I don’t think you’ll be able to stay for three weeks, there’s nothing to do other than surf” and when I said “we’re pretty old, we don’t mind it being quiet” she said “I’m pretty old too, but really, I think you’ll find it too quiet” and went on to describe just how quiet it was and we had a bit of a laugh about it, but I thought, maybe we’ll be different, maybe we’ll be able to stay two to three weeks. Then it rained for four days and I thought we’d never see the sun again, and there was no shared bookshelf and no coffee urn I could help myself to in the mornings. And by Wednesday when the rain did stop we knew we’d have to leave after only eight days even though the surf was amazing. Most people went back to El Tunco and planned to return for the next swell, but we decided it was time to head back to León in Nicaragua for five days, and then on to our next surf spot, Popoyo.
Las Flores was beautiful and had a black sandy beach, which we really appreciated after all the stones we’d been clambering over and trying to avoid hitting at El Tunco, Kilometro 59 and Miramar. The wave is a long right hand point break and as good as everyone said it would be. I asked Eddie what he wanted me to say about the surf at Las Flores and he said “You’ve already said it haven’t you? It was good… I surfed every day for seven days”… I was ripping seven out of eight days”. So, there you go.
By Friday the swell was fading away, which in Las Flores means it was about 3-4 foot. On Saturday morning Roberto gave us a lift to La Union, about 50 minutes from Las Flores, and we caught a lancha to Potosi in Nicaragua, a trip which took just under two hours between beautiful islands over a glassy ocean. From Potosi we caught a shuttle back to Casa de Huéspedes el Nancite, in Leon.