This isn’t a food blog, but

Lunch at Vermu – the Huevos vaqueros for Eddie and the Tacos de pescado for me

A relaxing Sunday

This morning we woke up at 5am for the 8th morning in a row. Not by choice though. The people staying in the chalet upstairs from us are early-risers, bless them, and every morning they get up at 5am and walk around continually for a whole hour before going out. For the life of me, I’ve been trying to work out what they could be doing that requires them to walk around for an hour within such a small space and I’ve come up with nothing. It’s not their fault of course, it’s the building, but when we passed them on the beach this morning – we were on our way out for a surf and they were on their way back from their early morning walk – Eddie recognised them and said “That’s Clumpfoot and his Mrs” and we had a bit of a giggle, which made us feel a little bit, but not entirely better.
The surf was about 3-5 foot this morning and not very crowded. I didn’t have a great surf. I got one really nice wave and kooked it and another wave that was pretty fun and peeled almost all the way to the beach. Apart from that, I caught a few fat ones and spent some time duck-diving and getting thrown around by the bigger sets that came through. After our surf, we made ourselves coffee with the kitchen cloth strainer and relaxed outside for a bit. It’s still a comfortable temperature outside our cabina at round 10-11am, so I like to hang out there until it gets hot before we go across the road for breakfast.
Eddie hanging outside our cabina with Tiramisu
This morning we had breakfast at La Glida, which is a gelataria, but which also makes great paninis, smoothies and coffee. I had an açaí bowl and a smoothie (honey, melon, turmeric, pineapple and celery – so delish!) and Eddie had an avocado-lover (toast with avocado, 2 fried eggs and a salad), orange juice and a coffee.
Speaking of food, there’s a restaurant just up the road from us called Katana, which has Thai, Vietnamese, Indian and Japanese food. Last night we had the butter chicken and a few nights ago I had a green curry while Eddie had the pork spare ribs. All three dishes were so delicious I think we’ll be eating there quite regularly over the next few weeks.
It’s the middle of the day now and too hot to do anything much, so we’re hiding inside. Eddie’s having a nap and I’m about to listen to a podcast or something.

Now we’re in Playa Carmen

About a week ago we said goodbye to Frederic and Melanie at Hotel Meli Melo, threw all our bags and boards in a taxi and moved from Playa Santa Teresa to Playa Carmen.
It was a trip of about 1km and only took 2 minutes, but it was a hot day and we’re not in our 20s anymore, so walking was definitely not an option.
We really loved staying at Meli Melo, but the sand banks at Playa Santa Teresa were producing more close-outs than surfeable waves and Playa Carmen was looking a lot better.

A long hot walk along Playa Santa Teresa
Lay in the sun, swim in the rockpool, lay in the sun, swim in the rockpool, etc. etc. somewhere between Playa Santa Teresa and Playa Carmen

We’ve spent the last week settling into our new surroundings, working out where to buy our groceries, where to have breakfast, where to watch the sunset, where to surf, and how to make our own coffee with a kitchen cloth strainer. I really regret not packing our coffee plunger, coz I can’t find one anywhere!

Hanging out with our bags while we wait to check into our new place
View from La Glida – you can really see how dry the dry season is at this time of year
Eddie’s breakfast
Naomi’s breakfast
Eddie and lizard at the beach
Pathway to our cabina at Playa Carmen
Sitting outside our cabina – I think I might be melting into that chair
The surf at Playa Carmen

We’ve heard from Marty, who’s looking after our property, that our bamboo is still alive, and from Sleepy Haven that William and Jasper are both happy and relaxed, so that’s good. There’s also been the awful news coming out of Christchurch. Lots of love to everyone, until next time.

Surfing, eating and coming down with a cold

Mostly we’ve been surfing, eating, cooling off in the swimming pool and trying to work out why everyone’s making such a fuss about Lady Gaga and Bradley Cooper. OK, that last one may just be me.

Pronto is about a one minute walk next door and great for lasagne, pasta, focaccia and triple chocolate brownies

On Monday morning we walked along the beach to Playa Carmen to put a deposit on our next accommodation. That means in one and a half weeks we’ll be moving about a kilometre up the road, surfing a different beach break, eating at different restaurants and maybe trying out one of the nearby yoga studios. One of them is up a steep hill, so I’m pretty sure I won’t be able to convince Eddie to go to that one. By the time we walked back along the beach to Santa Teresa it was so hot we had to stop a couple of times for a swim in the rockpools. And I’m not into walking along the beach in my bikini, but eventually I had to give in, because it was just too hot for clothes.

By Monday night I was feeling little aches and pains in my arms and legs. I put it down to all the surfing we’ve been doing. But, when I struggled to get out of bed and couldn’t unblock my ears on Tuesday morning, I had to admit to having a cold. The surf was really small on Tuesday and I spent the day in bed reading a crime novel while Eddie relaxed in the hammock, so it wasn’t all bad.

Eddie relaxing in the hammock
Me, before I had to go to bed to read

The surf has picked up a little bit today, so Eddie went out for a surf and I’ve decided to keep resting and tackle another book from the shared bookshelf called Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts. At least five people have recommended it to me in the past, but I haven’t been able to pick it up before now, because it’s 932 pages long and what if they’re wrong. I mean everyone raved about A Little Life by Hanya Yanagihara and I had to put it down 2/3 of the way through, because even without having read all the spoilery reviews I could see where it was going and couldn’t bring myself to go down to the bottom of that depressing rabbit hole.

Anyways, life is good and I’ll be back soonish.

Day one in Santa Teresa

We made it by shuttle and ferry to Hotel Meli Melo at about 8pm last night, which gave us enough time to check-in then race up the road to Chicken Joes for fish tacos (me) and a quarter chicken (Eddie). We also got to see Billy (the owner) and catch up a bit on what’s been happening in our lives since we left here last, in April 2017.


Me on the ferry with all our luggage

We went out for a surf for a couple of hours at about 8.30 this morning. It was low tide, small and the waves were closing out as often as they were peeling. BUT, the water was warm, so we could comfortably wear board shorts and togs instead of our steamers.

Eddie sitting out the front of our room at Hotel Meli Melo

The rest of the day has been about buying water, having lunch (a casado con pescado for me and pollo con ensalada y papas fritas for Eddie), and talking about where we’re going to go after our initial two-week stay at Hotel Meli Melo. So many options, so much time in which to choose one.

Day two in San Jose

We never used the GoPro we bought especially for our last trip to Central America! It was too small and awkward. But, we dug it out of the bottom of our techy drawer when Claire and Mark bought us some GoPro accessories for Christmas and it turns out accessories are exactly what we needed to make it useable. I recorded the following video in San Jose while we were waiting for our shuttle to Santa Teresa to pick us up from our hotel yesterday. 

Auckland to San Jose

I watched 5 episodes of The Little Drummer Girl, 3 minutes of Deadpool 2, Juliet Naked, Table 19, 2 episodes of Hang Ups and A simple Favor on our flight from Auckland to Houston. That’s how much TV I had to watch to distract myself from how uncomfortable it is to fly economy on a 12 hour flight. It didn’t really work, but we eventually landed, badly, in Houston, got through customs, had larger than anticipated meals at one of the food places in the terminal and caught the next plane to San Jose. I was so exhausted, I slept through most of that flight, only waking up in time to experience yet another bumpy landing.

The best part of our trip was getting to Hotel Santo Tomas (at about 11pm) and finding out the hotel and our room were as good as they looked in the photos, which rarely ever happens. Last time we were in San Jose we could feel the bedsprings in the mattress, this time the bed was so comfortable I slept through the night and only got up in the morning, because I didn’t want to miss out on breakfast.



I was still feeling a bit wobbly after breakfast, which may have been because I had two mugs of coffee, but I’m blaming it on going for a day without sleep. Anyway, we didn’t want to do anything major on our first day, so we took Omar’s (the receptionist/accountant) advice and went for a walk through the middle of town to look at the Jiménez Deredia sculptures, which were really beautiful. Afterwards, we had lunch at the Teatro Nacional and then wandered back to Hotel Santo Tomas to rest for the afternoon.